Well, after holding my breath, Medusa passed smog. No reason really why it shouldn’t since I haven’t done anything to it since I added the cats, but since this car is pretty old, I’m depending on the electronics and sensors and I just don’t know how long they will last.
Excited to say that looking at painting the car soon!
A few things have been worked on since my last post. I have looked into the never ending slop in the front steering and found that the steering wheel nut had loosened up a bit and was creating a bit of play. I took it apart and re-tightened it. But there is still more play than I’d like. More to come I’m sure.
Also there had been a noise emanating from the rear right wheel when I applied the brakes. Finally with the help of my pops, I figured that some of the parking brake mechanism was coming into contact with the brake shoe causing the noise and also a pulsating pedal. I fixed it.
When I was looking at that brake issue, I stuck a crowbar in between the control arm and the chassis to see how bad if at all the bushings were since I never changed them when I installed the rear shocks and springs. Well, it seemed that when I pried the bushings there was a lot of slop though not much visible damage. I decided there would be no point in replacing the other components and not the bushings. So I ordered some rear control arms and axle mounted bushings.
It took some time and muscle but again with the help of my dad, I changed the arms. The drive home was noticeably better though I think I need to drive it some more.
Some news on the car and a new blog I came across. First, I have gone back to get the alignment done. And this time the steering wheel is a little off and it pulls ever so slightly to the right. BUT, the play appears to be gone and I had the rear wheels re-balanced and now the car drives much better. So I am calling the steering issues once again resolved. Until I buy the castor/camber plates and have it realigned at the next tire purchase which should be a few years.
Since I had worked on the intake a while ago, I found that the idle was a lot more erratic which led me to try and clean up the throttle body, replace the IAC and replace the BAP sensor. I had yet to check the TPS voltage which I had heard about in the forums so I finally had time to do so. The voltage when I checked it as at .74 volts and I adjusted it to .97 volts. Again, the car seems to be back to full power and I have even turned on the air conditioning without the car dying. But I’ll wait ’till summer to call that a win.
Seat Belt/Warning Chime
Following some instructions I had found online, I went ahead and removed the chime unit and found that the foam layer had disintegrated. I followed the steps to add hot glue and returned the unit back under the dash. To my amazement, it worked and now I once again am annoyed by the bell chime!
I recently saw a video on one of the Mustang parts sites that covered the door spring. I didn’t realize that my driver side had recently broken. I will be replacing this soon.
While my intention was to have the car painted by a shop who is related to my wife, I don’t think that I will have the budget for that.They are well known for their Lowrider paint jobs and it would be great to have them paint it, but alas, maybe next time or for the second paint job if I keep the car for a long time. I am considering lower budget jobs at the moment. In the meantime, I am looking at getting the 93 Cobra style grill insert and hood vents from the newer Mustangs. I have to see if the vents will be able to work on the fox hood without too much trouble.
Another Mustang Blog
While researching the hood issue, I came across another blog where the owner is restoring an 88 Mustang LX. Here is the link! I am in awe at the work he is doing and his ability. I really need to learn how to weld and to paint a car. Those things are a real weakness as I am pretty sure that my 89 will not be my last car to work on. I am actually really liking the 66-67 Ford Fairlane and even the Galaxie but the latter is pretty long.
I received the new reman unit from carsteering.com. Hopefully this reman unit proves to be a quality unit that I can forget about. I won’t go into the sad customer service from the aforementioned vendor. Let’s just say that they kept more of my money than they should have and I will not be purchasing from them again.
This unit looks pretty good. And after checking the old new reman unit, I see a lot of differences and also a lot of problems from the rack I sourced from Pep Boys. Anyway, with my Pop’s help, I installed the rack and have scheduled another alignment. Let’s hope it’s the end of the steering issues and hope that the steering slop is gone.
Along with the idle issue, I was also not happy with the ongoing sloppiness that is felt in the steering. After all, I had replaced the rack and pinion with a reman unit, replaced the outer tie rods, replaced shocks and springs and had the car aligned not to mention new tires and wheels. Well, the last thing that I had not checked was the steering shaft itself and the rag joint. I had tried to see if there was any play in the shaft while in the car and I figured I’d just take it off and inspect it on the bench. Well, much to my surprise I found that the driver side inner tie rod end (which was part of the rack and pinion unit) was extremely loose. I wish it wasn’t that bad but in fact this might be what was plaguing the steering. So I have ordered a new reman unit from a different vendor and hoping that it proves to be a better buy than this reman crap from Pep Boys. I’ll forgo telling the story about ordering a “brand new” unit only to have received a rack that looked lovely but would not fit my car.
So now, I am waiting for the new reman unit and have removed the old new reman unit. I’ll have to re-align the car again which essentially means i am paying double for the same work on the car. What else can I do?
More to come once I install the other unit. I have to still work on the idle with the TPS and see how it’s running after that. I hope it is running well because damn.
Having tackled the valve cover gaskets earlier this year, I found that the car was running differently. No longer was the idle as clean as it was and in fact if feels as if the car has lost power. I decided to look into it.
I read about possible causes on a rough idle on stangnet.com. I basically went through the checklist and have done the following:
- Cleaned salt and pepper connections at the rear of the intake plenum
- checked air filter
- checked voltage from alternator
- MAF sensor was previously cleaned
- replaced IAC valve
Still, the car didn’t run as it should so I decided to pull the codes from the car’s computer. I believe I retreived a 22 code which would indicate something’s amiss on the Barometric Air Pressure sensor. So I replaced it and without driving the car, it looks like it ran better but when I pullled the codes again, the 22 reappears. Not sure if it is a stored code or simply a problem with that circuit.
Since I was already working on the car, I decided to remove the throttle body and clean it since it does have advanced mileage. Ended it having quite a bit of carbon buildup on the throttle body and especially in the EGR spacer. I cleaned these items and have replaced the gaskets.
Still to do: I have to check the output on the TPS to make sure it’s within acceptable range and test drive the car. More to come.